Ingredients

6 (1/4-inch-thick) slices pancetta

3 flat anchovy fillets

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 1/2 tablespoon crumbled blue cheese

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1/4 cup vegetable oil plus additional for brushing

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons grated Asiago cheese plus 1/4 cup shavings (preferably made with a Y-shaped vegetable peeler), divided

3 hearts of romaine, halved lengthwise

Preparation

* Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. * Bake pancetta in 1 layer in a 4-sided sheet pan, turning occasionally, until crisp, about 30 minutes. * Meanwhile, prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot charcoal (medium heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure.” * Purée anchovies, mayonnaise, blue cheese, garlic, sugar, mustard, soy sauce, and 1/2 tsp pepper in a food processor. With motor running, add oil in a slow stream, blending until combined. Transfer to a small bowl and whisk in lemon juice, grated Asiago, and salt to taste. * Lightly brush romaine with oil and season with 1/4 tsp each of salt and pepper. Grill, turning occasionally, until slightly wilted and browned in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. * Serve romaine drizzled with dressing and sprinkled with crumbled pancetta and shaved Asiago.

cooks’ note: Romaine can be cooked in an oiled hot grill pan over medium heat.