Ingredients
3 bulbs fennel, fronds separated, bulbs cut through core into 1-inch wedges
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
2 teaspoons whole pink peppercorns (available at penzeys.com)
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup packed fresh flatleaf parsley leaves
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 whole striped bass or snapper (3 3/4 to 4 pounds), cleaned
2 cups mixed herb sprigs and other aromatic greens, such as mint, celery leaves, oregano, and parsley (optional)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
12 habanero or other colorful chiles, for serving (optional)
Lemon slices, for serving
Grilled Potatoes, for serving
Mixed Herb Sauce, for serving
Preparation
Using a mortar and pestle, crush 1/2 cup fennel fronds, black and pink peppercorns, garlic, and parsley to a paste. (Or pulse in a food processor.) Stir in 2 tablespoons oil. Rub mixture over fish, inside and out; stuff fish with more fennel fronds, herb sprigs, and greens. Cover with plastic wrap; let stand 30 minutes.
Preheat grill to medium. Season fish generously with salt and pepper. Brush a fish-grilling basket with oil; place fish inside and secure. Grill, covered, turning once, until fish is opaque and flakes when tested with the tip of a knife, 20 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss fennel bulbs and chiles in a bowl with salt and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Grill until fennel and chiles are lightly marked and tender (if they start to burn, shift to a cooler area of grill). Arrange fish on a platter; surround with lemon, potatoes, fennel, and chiles (chiles should be eaten with caution). Drizzle with herb sauce; serve immediately.
